Caring for a hand-forged axe
Steel, wood and leather. Ten minutes of attention, twice a year, and a piece outlives you.
5 min read
A hand-forged axe is three materials with three different enemies. Steel fears water. Wood fears dryness. Leather fears heat. Everything below follows from that.
After every use
- 01Wipe the head dryA cloth is enough. If it has been in wet grass or rain, do it the same day — not the same week.
- 02Lift sap and residueWarm water and a cloth. Hardened sap comes off with mineral oil. Never an abrasive pad on an etched Damascus face — it flattens the pattern.
- 03Oil the steelA few drops of mineral, camellia or light machine oil on a rag. Include under the haft collar, where damp sits unseen. Food-grade oil if the piece ever meets food.
- 04Let leather dry in airNever on a radiator or in direct sun. Heat shrinks vegetable-tanned leather and it does not come back.
The edge
Sharpen when it stops biting, not on a calendar. Every sharpening removes steel you cannot put back.
Handles and leather
Wood
Ash, birch, rosewood, walnut and olive all move with humidity. Twice a year: boiled linseed oil or hard wax, let it soak, buff off the excess.
If a head ever feels loose, stop using it. Do not soak the axe to swell the wood — an old trick that rusts the eye and fails again as soon as it dries.
Leather
Vegetable-tanned, so it stiffens to shape and takes a patina. Balm or neatsfoot oil once or twice a year.
Do not store a blade sheathed for months in a humid room. Leather holds moisture against steel, which is precisely how pitting starts.
Do and do not
- Store dry, at a stable temperature
- Oil before it goes away for a season
- Loosen or remove the sheath for long storage
- Keep mounted pieces out of direct sun
- Put any hand-forged piece in a dishwasher
- Use steel wool on etched Damascus
- Leave it sheathed in a damp shed over winter
- Test an edge across your thumb