Stormfold Hand Forged Damascus Katana with Cord Wrapped Handle | 1095 and 15N20 Blade at 58 to 60 HRC | Oval Iron Tsuba and Black Lacquer Saya | Japanese Sword Gift | RK-1624
Key Features:
- Material: Forge welded 1095 and 15N20 damascus at 58 to 60 HRC, etched and polished back.
- Pattern: Long flowing waves running the full length, structural rather than printed on.
- Blade: Long shallow curve, ungrooved, so more mass stays out along the length for cutting.
- Furniture: Oval iron tsuba with a patterned habaki seating the blade in the saya.
- Handle: Black cord wrap over a textured underlay for grip in damp hands.
- Scabbard: Fitted black lacquer finish saya.
- Personalisation: Elder Futhark rune engraving or your own Viking design.
- Hand forged in the Czech Republic. Shipped from the Czech Republic.
$579.00
★★★★★4.99 from 1,552 verified reviews
The details
- Steel
- Hand Forged Damascus
- Reference
- RK-1624
Also filed under
Features & Compatibility
The Stormfold is a katana with a layered damascus blade. The fold runs the full length in long flowing waves, etched and then polished back so the pattern reads as light rather than as a dark texture, and the curve is drawn out long and shallow rather than tight. It wears an oval iron tsuba, a patterned habaki collar at the base of the blade, a black cord wrapped handle over a textured underlay and a black lacquer saya.
Folding steel was never about mysticism. Japanese smiths worked from tamahagane, a bloomery steel produced in a clay furnace, which came out of the smelt wildly uneven in carbon content and full of slag. Folding a billet repeatedly is how you homogenise that: each fold halves the thickness of every inclusion and redistributes carbon through the mass, and by around ten folds you have thousands of layers and a consistent bar. Modern steel arrives clean and even, so folding today is done for the pattern rather than for the metallurgy, and we would rather say that plainly than pretend otherwise. Ours is forged, ground, hardened, etched and mounted in the Czech Republic.
Specifications
| Blade steel | 1095 and 15N20 damascus, hardened to 58 to 60 HRC, hand etched and polished back |
|---|---|
| Blade | Single edged curved blade with a long shallow curve, no groove, flowing wave pattern along the full length |
| Guard | Oval iron tsuba in a dark finish |
| Collar | Patterned habaki at the base of the blade, seating the sword in the saya |
| Handle | Black cord wrapped tsuka over a textured underlay, with a shaped kashira |
| Scabbard | Black lacquer finish saya with a fitted mouth |
| Edge | Ground and sharpened by hand, arrives keen |
| Included | Katana and matching saya |
| SKU | RK-1624 |
How a folded blade gets its pattern
Two steels go into this billet. 1095 is a plain high carbon steel. 15N20 is a carbon steel with a couple of percent nickel in it, originally made for bandsaw blades. They forge weld happily to each other and they take an acid etch completely differently, and that difference is the whole trick.
The two are stacked in alternating layers, brought to welding heat, hammered together, drawn out, cut, folded back on themselves and welded again. Every fold doubles the layer count, so it climbs fast. The billet is then forged to the shape of the blade, and every hammer blow distorts those layers in three dimensions. When the finished blade is etched, the acid bites the 1095 and leaves the nickel bearing 15N20 alone, so the layers surface as bright lines against a dark ground.
What you see on the flats is a cross section through that distorted layer structure. Grinding the bevels cuts through the layers at an angle, which is why the pattern runs in long waves near the edge and tightens toward the spine. It runs all the way through the steel rather than sitting on the surface, so sharpening it, polishing it, or grinding a chip out will never remove the pattern.
The curve, the steel and the mounting
The curve on this blade, the sori, is long and shallow rather than deep. A shallow curve puts more of the edge in contact through a cut and makes the sword point more naturally, which is why the shape drifted this way over the centuries as swords were carried edge up in the belt rather than slung edge down.
The blade is hardened and tempered to 58 to 60 HRC. That is at the harder end of what a long blade should be and it is what damascus wants, because the layered structure gives back some toughness that a monosteel blade at the same hardness would not have. It takes a very keen edge and holds it.
The mounting is traditional in arrangement. An oval iron tsuba, a patterned habaki that wedges the blade into the mouth of the saya so it does not rattle, a cord wrap over a textured underlay that gives grip in damp hands, and a lacquered saya. The habaki is the unglamorous part that does the most work. It is the only thing holding the sword in the scabbard.
Engraving, runes and your own design
Use the rune converter on this page to turn a name, a date or a short phrase into Elder Futhark and we will cut it into the steel, the leather or the wood. If you would rather have a Viking pattern than a rune line, choose your own design in the engraving option above the add to cart button and tell us where it goes. Where a piece already carries an engraved design, your chosen engraving replaces it rather than sitting alongside it. On a damascus katana the honest advice is to keep engraving off the etched flats, because cutting into the pattern fights with it. The saya and the tsuba are the better surfaces. Talk to us through the engraving page and we will tell you what will look right.
Handling and balance
This is a two handed sword and it wants both hands spaced well apart, left hand at the butt pulling, right hand under the tsuba steering, neither of them clenched. The cut comes from the hips and the shoulders rotating, with the hands finishing the movement rather than starting it.
Without a groove this blade carries a little more mass out along its length than a fullered one, so it feels heavier in the tip and hits harder for it. That is a fair trade for a cutting sword and it is the reason a lot of people prefer an ungrooved blade for target work. It also means the sword takes slightly more discipline to stop where you want it.
It is a sharp functional sword. It will cut soft targets cleanly with good technique. It is not for sparring. No blade on blade contact, no hard targets, nothing with a hidden core, and never test an edge on bone or metal. Hardened carbon steel chips.
Care
Damascus rusts like any high carbon steel, and an etched surface shows a fingerprint faster than a plain polished one because the acid has already opened the grain. Wipe the blade after every handling session and keep a light film of mineral oil or blade oil over the flats. If a spot appears, lift it with oil and a soft cloth. Never use abrasive paper on an etched blade, because it cuts straight through the etch and leaves a bright bald patch in the pattern that only re etching will fix. Full detail sits in steel care.
Do not leave the sword stored in the saya for months in a humid room. A lacquered scabbard traps moisture against steel. Oil it and store it out on a rack for long periods. Keep the cord wrap dry and wipe the tsuba and habaki so sweat does not sit in the seams.
Made in the Czech Republic
Every piece we sell is made by hand in the Czech Republic. The smiths there work the way the trade has been worked for a long time, heating and hammering the steel, taking the bevels down by eye, and fitting the handle and the leather one at a time. There is no automated line anywhere in it, so small differences from one piece to the next are normal and expected.
Ransack Viking is a United States company based in Memphis, Tennessee. We bring the pieces in ourselves, inspect them on arrival and ship them from our own warehouse. If you add engraving, that is carried out here in the United States before your order goes out.
A note on handmade variation
This is hand made, not machine made and not bulk produced, so what arrives will not be a pixel for pixel copy of the photograph. The damascus pattern is the most variable part of all. Every billet folds, draws and distorts differently, so the waves on your blade will be yours alone and no two swords we make carry the same figure. Grain, tone, hammer texture, the exact depth of the curve, the tightness of the cord wrap and the depth of the lacquer all vary because each piece is worked by hand. The dimensions, the material and the build are the same every time. The character is not.
Frequently asked questions
Is it sharp when it arrives
Yes. It is hand ground and sharpened and arrives keen. Treat it as a live blade the moment you open the box.
Is the damascus real or etched on
It is real. The pattern is the layered structure of forge welded 1095 and 15N20 running all the way through the steel, which is why sharpening and polishing will never remove it.
Can I use it for sparring or cutting
Careful target cutting on soft targets, yes, with sound technique. Sparring, no. Blade on blade contact chips a hardened carbon edge and is dangerous with any live blade.
Does it have a bo hi groove
No. This blade is deliberately ungrooved, which keeps more mass out along the length and makes it hit harder through a cut. Our plain 1095 katana has the groove if you prefer that feel.
How do I stop it rusting
Wipe it after handling and keep a light film of oil on the flats. An etched blade shows fingerprints quickly, so make the wipe down a habit rather than an afterthought.
How long does it take to ship
Processing is one to two weeks plus transit, at the longer end for engraved orders. Shipping within the United States is free.
What is in the box
- One Stormfold damascus katana with an oval iron tsuba and cord wrapped handle
- One black lacquer finish saya
- Care card covering oiling an etched blade and safe storage
- Forged and finished in the Czech Republic
Explore the range
See more in katana and Japanese swords, damascus swords, wakizashi and sword stands and displays, or read the guides.











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