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Display Sword vs Battle Ready: What the Words Mean and What You Need
Battle ready means whatever the person selling it wants it to mean. There is no standard, no test and nobody checking. In ordinary...
How to Choose a Viking Knife: Seax, Steel, Tang and Handle
A Viking knife is an easy thing to want and a hard thing to choose, because the phrase covers everything from a hand length seax t...
The Arms of Vikings and The Last Kingdom, Rated for Accuracy
Both shows get the big shapes right and the details wrong in the same places. Round shields, spears, single edged knives and long ...
Buying a Viking Helmet: Fit, Steel Gauge and What to Avoid
For nearly everyone, the right buy is a riveted spangenhelm or a one piece conical helm in 16 to 18 gauge mild steel, with a nasal...
Gifts for Reenactors: What They Actually Want, by Period
A reenactor wants kit that fits the period he already portrays, and nothing else will do. Buy for the Viking age man and you are l...
Caring for Chainmail and Steel Armour
Maille does not so much rust as patiently wait for you to forget about it. Keep it clean and dry, oil it lightly, and store it whe...
Excalibur: The Legend, the Sources and What Collectors Actually Buy
Excalibur is a literary object, not an archaeological one. No sword of that name has ever been excavated, and no chronicle written...
Viking Axe vs Medieval Axe: How the Shape Changed and Why
A Viking axe has a thin, wide, light head on a long haft, built to cut fast at a shield wall. A later medieval axe has a thicker, ...
How to Display Swords and Axes on a Wall Safely
Hang a sword or an axe from fixings driven into a stud or into rated wall anchors, never into bare plasterboard. Use two mounting ...
How to Choose a Viking Axe: Head, Haft and What It Is For
For most buyers the right Viking axe is a bearded head on a haft of about 19 to 24 inches, hand forged in carbon steel, with a lea...