Keelbrand Hand Forged High Carbon Arming Sword with Longship Etched Blade | Brass Ball Pommel and Trefoil Guard | Leather Grip and Scabbard | Norse Collector Gift | RK-2172
Key Features:
- Material: 1095 high carbon steel at 54 to 58 HRC, mirror polished by hand.
- Blade: Double edged arming sword blade tapering to an acute point.
- Etching: Norse longship under sail with shields along the gunwale.
- Hilt: Solid brass ball pommel and a curved brass guard with trefoil terminals.
- Grip: Tan leather over a shaped wooden core.
- Included: Fitted tan leather scabbard.
- Personalisation: Elder Futhark rune engraving or your own Viking design.
- Hand Made in the Czech Republic.
We ship worldwide, and we pay the import duty and the VAT ourselves.
- Shipping cost. Shipping on this piece is free in the United States and 69 dollars everywhere else.
- Nothing to pay on delivery. No customs bill, no handling fee, no parcel held at the depot waiting for money.
- No need to ask first. Place the order. We check it before it ships, and if it cannot reach your country we cancel it and refund you in full.
- Handmade in the Czech Republic, inspected and shipped from Memphis, Tennessee.
$419.00 Original price was: $419.00.$356.15Current price is: $356.15.
★★★★★4.99 from 1,552 customer reviews
Features & Compatibility
A single handed arming sword with a brass ball pommel, a curved brass crossguard finished in trefoil lobes at each tip, and a tan leather grip with a swelling in the middle so the hand finds its place without looking. The blade is 1095 high carbon, mirror polished, tapering to an acute point, and it carries an etched Norse longship under sail near the ricasso with the round shields hung along the gunwale.
That ship is the reason the sword type exists at all in this shape. The knightly arming sword of the tenth to twelfth centuries grew directly out of the Viking sword, which travelled wherever those hulls did. The change was mostly at the hilt. The Norse lobed pommel gave way to a ball or a wheel, the guard grew longer and curved forward, and the blade tapered a little more toward the point. This one sits in that transition. Made by hand in the Czech Republic, imported and checked by Ransack Viking, shipped from our Memphis, Tennessee warehouse with a fitted tan leather scabbard.
The best Norse blades of all carried a maker name in the fuller, which the Ulfberht blades covers. Ships turn up on stone and metal all over the Norse world, and the symbols guide covers the motifs that recur. A board from the round shields is what usually stands beside one.
Specifications
| Blade steel | 1095 high carbon, 54 to 58 HRC |
|---|---|
| Blade profile | Double edged, lenticular, tapering to an acute point |
| Etching | Norse longship under sail with shields on the gunwale |
| Pommel | Solid brass ball with a peened tang button |
| Guard | Forward curved brass crossguard with trefoil terminals |
| Grip | Tan leather over a shaped wooden core, swelled at the waist |
| Finish | Mirror polished blade, polished brass fittings |
| Included | Fitted tan leather scabbard |
| SKU | RK-2172 |
What the pommel is actually for
People assume the pommel is a decorative cap or something to hit with. Its real job is arithmetic. A sword blade is a lever with most of its mass out front, and without a counterweight at the back it would hang like a length of pipe and be exhausting to hold in guard. The brass ball on this sword pulls the balance point back toward the hand, which is what lets a single handed sword be held out at arm’s length and moved with the wrist rather than the shoulder.
The second job is structural. The tang runs the full length of the grip and out through a hole in the pommel, where the end is peened over into a button. That peening is what holds the whole hilt in compression, guard against grip against pommel. It is why a properly built sword hilt does not rattle, and it is the first thing to check on any sword you are offered second hand.
The steel and the polish
1095 is a plain high carbon steel, hardened here to 54 to 58 HRC, which is the sensible range for a long blade. A sword hardened much beyond that gains edge retention it does not need and loses the ability to bend and return, which matters far more when the blade is this long. The result is a blade that flexes under load and comes back straight rather than taking a set or snapping.
The mirror polish is done by hand through progressively finer abrasives. It looks better than a satin finish and it is slightly more rust resistant, because there are fewer scratches for moisture to sit in, but it shows fingerprints immediately. The brass fittings are cast and then filed and polished. Brass was chosen over steel on this pattern for the colour contrast and because it takes a crisp trefoil edge without the fittings becoming heavy.
Engraving, runes and your own design
Use the rune converter on this page to turn a name, a date or a short phrase into Elder Futhark and we will cut it into the steel, the leather or the wood. If you would rather have a Viking pattern than a rune line, choose your own design in the engraving option above the add to cart button and tell us where it goes. Where a piece already carries an engraved design, your chosen engraving replaces it rather than sitting alongside it. On this sword the usual choice is a rune line running down the fuller below the longship, or a short inscription across the flat of the guard. Engraving is done here in the United States after the piece arrives. See the engraving page for what fits.
Handling and balance
Hold it in a relaxed hammer grip with the flat of the guard across the base of your fingers, and let the ball pommel rest against the heel of your palm. The swell in the grip stops the hand creeping forward under a cut. Because the balance point sits close to the guard, the sword turns quickly and holds a guard position without fatigue, which is what a single handed sword is for.
This is a collector and display piece rather than a sparring sword. It is not built or tested for full contact work against another blade, and it should not be used for cutting practice against hard targets. Hung on a wall, carried at a reenactment or drawn for photographs it is exactly right.
Care
Wipe the blade down after handling. Skin acid is the main enemy of a mirror polish and a fingerprint left overnight will etch itself into the surface. Use a soft cloth and a light film of mineral oil or a purpose made blade oil over the whole flat. Brass will dull to a warm gold, which suits the piece, and a brass polish on a cloth restores the shine if you prefer it bright. Keep polish off the leather. Feed the grip and the scabbard with a neutral leather cream twice a year, and store the sword out of the scabbard if the room is damp, because leather holds moisture against steel. There is more in steel care.
If it is going on a wall, hanging swords and axes safely covers mounts, fixings and what not to do.
Made in the Czech Republic
This sword is made by hand in the Czech Republic. The blade is forged and ground, the fittings cast and finished, the grip wrapped and the scabbard cut and stitched by the people who make it. Nothing here comes from an importer catalogue. Ransack Viking buys them, brings them into the United States, checks the hilt for tightness, the blade for straightness and the scabbard for fit, and holds stock in the Memphis, Tennessee warehouse so orders leave from a shelf. Processing runs one to two weeks, longer at the top of that range when an engraving is ordered. Shipping in the United States is free, returns run seven days, and the lifetime warranty against defects in forging, grind, heat treat and fittings carries no end date and needs no receipt.
A note on handmade variation
Hand made, not machine made or bulk produced, so what arrives will not be a pixel for pixel copy of the photograph. Leather is the biggest variable. The grip and the scabbard are cut from natural hide, and colour, grain and the way the dye sits will differ from one to the next. The longship etch is applied individually so its contrast varies slightly. Brass castings are hand filed, so a trefoil lobe may be a fraction fuller on one than another. The steel, the geometry, the hardness and the build are the same every time. The character is not.
Frequently asked questions
Is the blade sharp
It arrives with a finished cutting edge and an acute point, so it is not a blunt reenactment blade. Handle it accordingly and keep it out of reach of children.
Can I spar with it
No. This is not built or tested for full contact sparring against another blade, and we make no battle ready claim for it. Use a purpose built blunt trainer for contact work.
Is the scabbard included
Yes. A fitted tan leather scabbard comes with the sword, cut to this blade rather than supplied as a generic sleeve.
Will the brass tarnish
It will, slowly, to a warm darker gold. That is normal for solid brass and many owners prefer it. A brass polish brings it back whenever you want.
Can the longship be replaced with my own runes
Yes. Order the engraving option and send your text. Your engraving replaces the ship rather than sitting beside it, so say if you would rather keep the ship and have runes cut lower down the blade.
Does it come with a wall mount
No, the sword and scabbard ship on their own. Sword stands and wall mounts are listed separately in the display section of the shop.
What is in the box
- One 1095 high carbon arming sword with brass fittings and a leather grip
- One fitted tan leather scabbard
- Your Elder Futhark rune line or chosen Viking design, if ordered
- Lifetime warranty against defects in forging, grind, heat treat and fittings
- Hand made in the Czech Republic, shipped from our Memphis, Tennessee warehouse
Explore the range
More in arming swords, Viking swords, swords and engraved and personalised pieces, plus the guides.
Additional information
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