Emberfall Hand Forged Damascus Falchion Sword | 30 Inch Overall with 24 Inch Blade | Medieval Collector Gift | RK-1292

Pattern welding was not invented to look good. Early smiths worked with iron of wildly inconsistent quality, and stacking, welding and folding bars together was the only reliable way to average out the bad spots and get a blade that would not fail. By the time falchions appeared in the thirteenth century, steel making had improved enough that the technique was no longer necessary, and it survived because of what it looked like. That is the honest story behind every Damascus blade sold today, including this one. What you are buying is a genuinely forge welded billet, not an etched print, and the pattern goes all the way through the steel rather than sitting on the surface.

This Damascus falchion is forged and finished by hand in Memphis, Tennessee. The blade is 1095 and 15N20 forge welded in alternating layers, hardened to 58 to 60 HRC and etched to bring the pattern up. The hilt is gilt brass with a shaped ring guard and matching pommel, with a dark hardwood grip between them. It ships in a brown leather scabbard with brass furniture, and shipping inside the United States is free.

Specifications

Why a falchion belly is shaped the way it is

Hold this blade at the guard and look down the spine. The back is nearly straight for the first half, then the edge swells outward into a pronounced belly before both lines converge at a clipped point. That belly is where a falchion does its work. Moving steel forward raises the point of percussion and puts more mass behind the part of the edge that actually meets the target, which is why a falchion of modest weight cuts far harder than its numbers suggest.

The single edge lets the smith be generous with the spine. Where a double edged sword has to be thin on both sides, a falchion keeps a heavy back that resists bending and takes shock without complaint. The gilt ring guard on this piece is a period feature seen on high status falchions and long knives, where a side ring or shell was added to shelter the hand without the bulk of a full basket.

Why Damascus and not stainless

Two steels are used in this workshop. Plain blades are 1095 high carbon steel at 54 to 58 HRC. Damascus blades like this one are 1095 and 15N20 forge welded together and taken to 58 to 60 HRC. Nothing else is used.

The pairing is deliberate. 1095 is a plain high carbon steel that hardens hard. 15N20 carries about two percent nickel, which does two useful things. It resists the acid etch, so it stays bright while the 1095 darkens and the layers show as light and dark bands, and it adds toughness to the finished billet. The result is a blade that is harder than our plain 1095 pieces and still resilient. Stainless steel cannot do this. Its chromium content prevents a clean forge weld, it will not etch into a pattern, and at sword lengths the chromium carbides make it brittle. Read our comparison of Damascus versus stainless for the full argument.

The hardwood grip and gilt brass furniture

The grip is dark hardwood, shaped to an oval so the edge is always where your hand thinks it is, and finished smooth rather than lacquered. The guard and pommel are brass with a gilt finish, chosen because the warm gold tone sets off the light and dark banding of the Damascus far better than plain steel would. The tang runs the length of the grip and is peened over the pommel.

Keep the wood out of strong sun and away from dry heat, and oil it once or twice a year to stop the grain shrinking away from the guard. Our wooden handle care guide has the details.

Engraving, runes and your own design

Use the rune converter on this page to turn a name, a date or a short phrase into Elder Futhark and we will cut it into the steel or the handle. If you would rather have a Viking pattern than a rune line, choose your own design in the engraving option above the add to cart button and tell us whether it goes on the blade or the handle. Where a piece already carries an engraved design, your chosen engraving replaces it rather than sitting alongside it. On a Damascus blade the cut line reads against the pattern rather than through it, and there are photographs showing exactly how that looks on the engraving page.

Care and sharpening

Damascus needs slightly more attention than plain steel, because the etch that reveals the pattern also opens the surface a little. Wipe the blade after handling and keep a light film of oil on it. Never use an abrasive polish or a rust eraser on the flats, because you will lift the etch and flatten the contrast. Our steel care page explains how to remove spotting without losing the pattern.

Sharpening is straightforward. The bevel is on one side, the curve is generous, and a medium stone followed by a fine one will restore the edge in a few minutes. Keep the existing angle, work slowly along the belly where the curve is tightest, and finish by removing the burr on the back. See sharpening with a whetstone.

Forged in Memphis

The billet for this blade is stacked, welded and drawn out in our shop in Memphis, Tennessee, then forged to shape, ground, heat treated, etched and hilted here. The leather is cut and stitched here too. Nothing is drop shipped from an importer catalogue. Damascus takes longer than plain steel because the billet has to be built before the blade can be started, so allow three to four weeks for a made to order piece, or two to three business days if it is in stock.

A note on handmade variation

This falchion is hand forged. It is not machine made and it is not bulk produced, so what arrives will not be a pixel for pixel copy of the photograph. Damascus pattern is the clearest example of this. No two billets fold the same way, so the swirls, bands and eyes on your blade will be yours alone. The wood grain, the tone of the gilding and the exact sweep of the belly vary as well, because every part is worked by hand from natural materials. Dimensions, steel and build stay the same. The character does not.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Damascus pattern real or printed?

It is real. The blade is forged from a billet of 1095 and 15N20 welded together, drawn out and folded, so the pattern runs through the full thickness of the steel. Grinding into the blade would reveal more of the same pattern, not a plain core.

Is it sharp, and can I cut with it?

It arrives sharp and it is a working sword. Full tang, hardened to 58 to 60 HRC and peened at the pommel, it will handle tatami, bottles and light green wood. It is not intended for steel to steel sparring.

Can I have runes engraved on a Damascus blade?

Yes. Use the rune converter above for Elder Futhark or choose your own Viking pattern in the engraving option. Cut lines show clearly against the etched pattern.

Will my Damascus look like the photograph?

It will be the same style of pattern at the same contrast, but the exact figure is unique to each billet. Layer count, dimensions and hardness are the same every time.

What is the difference between this and the plain steel falchion?

The plain falchion is 1095 at 54 to 58 HRC with a bright polish. This one is forge welded 1095 and 15N20 at 58 to 60 HRC with an etched pattern, gilt brass furniture and a harder edge. It also takes longer to make, which is reflected in the price.

How long does shipping take?

Shipping is free within the United States. Stock swords arrive five to seven business days after dispatch. Made to order Damascus adds three to four weeks, and engraving adds a little more.

What is in the box

• One hand forged 1095 and 15N20 Damascus falchion, 30 inches overall
• One brown leather scabbard with brass throat and chape
• Care card written for etched Damascus rather than plain steel
• Your Elder Futhark rune line or chosen pattern, if engraving was ordered
• Forged and finished in Memphis, Tennessee

Explore the range

See the rest of the Damascus swords, the plain steel falchions, the single edged messers and the full sword range, or read the guides.