Pakkaclaw Hand Forged Damascus Hawkbill Knife with Coloured Pakka Wood Handle and Steel Bolster & Leather Sheath | Tactical Collector Gift | RK-1098

The hawkbill is one of the oldest working knife shapes there is. The edge sits on the inside of a hooked blade, the same idea pruning knives and rope cutters have used for a very long time, because the hook pulls whatever you are cutting into the edge instead of letting it slide away. This one has no finger ring, which is what separates it from a karambit. The handle is a plain full tang grip that you hold like any other knife.

Every Pakkaclaw is forged, ground and finished by hand. The blade is Damascus from 1095 and 15N20 at 58 to 60 HRC, 4 inches long, built full tang on a knife that runs 8.5 inches overall with a 4.5 inch handle in coloured pakka wood over a steel bolster. The two are fitted so the knife sits balanced in the palm rather than hanging forward.

It is forged in the Czech Republic, and ships with a genuine leather sheath, protective packaging and an edge already set on the stone.

Specifications

What the curve does, and why there is no ring

The working principle of a hawkbill is that the edge sits on the inside of the curve. Anything you pull through it is trapped between the point and the belly instead of rolling away, and the edge meets it at a shallow slicing angle rather than a square pushing one. That is why the shape bites first time on rice stalks, on rope, on webbing, on garden growth and on packing strap, and why hooked farm and pruning knives have been built this way for generations. It is also why cutting toward yourself, which is how the pattern is used, gives far better depth control than pushing a straight blade away from you.

This knife has no finger ring, and that is the real difference from a karambit. Without a ring you can change grip quickly, choke up on the blade for fine work and use it for general cutting the way you would a straight knife. What you give up is the locked in retention a ring gives, so if that matters more to you, the ringed karambits in the range are the better choice. Profiles are compared in blade shapes explained.

Why Damascus and not stainless

The blade is pattern welded Damascus, made by forge welding 1095 and 15N20 into a single billet, then folding and drawing it out until the layers show as a pattern through the steel. The two alloys take the etchant differently at the end, the 1095 going dark and the nickel bearing 15N20 staying bright, which is what makes the light and dark bands. It is not a coating and it will not wear off, because you are looking at a cross section of the bar. The long version is in what Damascus steel is.

The reason to choose it over stainless is edge behaviour. At 58 to 60 HRC this steel takes a finer edge and holds it longer through cutting than a soft stainless blade, and it comes back on a stone faster, which matters on a curved edge because a curve takes more time to work. The cost is that it is high carbon underneath the pattern and it will spot if it is put away wet. On this shape, water sits in the inside of the hook, which is the one place people forget to dry. The comparison is in Damascus versus stainless.

The coloured pakka wood handle

Pakka wood is not a timber, and knowing that changes how you look after it. It is a laminate: thin hardwood veneers are dyed, stacked in layers, saturated with phenolic resin and then compressed under heat and pressure until the whole block is dense and solid. The colour goes right through because the veneers were dyed before pressing, and the banding you see on the finished handle is the edge of those layers exposed by the grinding.

What that means in practice is that it behaves like a synthetic rather than like wood. It does not swell, shrink, split or lift when it gets wet, it is unaffected by humidity or by going from a cold pocket to a warm room, and it will not dry out. It needs no oiling at all, and there is nothing to feed. Wash it, dry it, and keep it away from sustained heat and solvents. That is the whole routine. If you also own genuinely wooden handled pieces from the forge, those do need an annual light oil and the method for them is in wooden handle care, but do not apply it here. The steel bolster wants nothing more than the wipe of oil you give the blade.

Engraving, runes and your own design

Use the rune converter on this page to turn a name, a date or a short phrase into Elder Futhark and we will cut it into the steel or the handle. If you would rather have a Viking pattern than a rune line, choose your own design in the engraving option above the add to cart button and tell us whether it goes on the blade or the handle. Where a piece already carries an engraved design, your chosen engraving replaces it rather than sitting alongside it. On this knife we would usually cut into the blade flat or the steel bolster, since a mark in pakka wood exposes the pale core of the veneers and reads differently from a cut in steel. Everything is done here before the knife is packed. See the engraving page.

Care and sharpening

Damascus is carbon steel underneath the pattern, so treat it like carbon steel. Dry it after use, put a thin film of oil on it before storage, and keep it out of the sheath for long spells because leather holds moisture. Pay particular attention to the inside of the hook and the join where the tang meets the bolster. The routine is in steel care.

Sharpening a hooked edge is ordinary stone work done in short sections. Work an inch or two at a time and rotate the knife as you go so the point of contact travels around the curve toward the tip, rather than trying to make a full length pass. A narrow stone or a round rod is much easier than a wide bench stone for the tight part of the hook. The basics are in sharpening with a whetstone.

Made in the Czech Republic

This piece is made by hand in the Czech Republic, in a workshop that still works the old way. The steel is forged, ground, heat treated and finished by smiths who learned the trade from the people before them, and the wood, horn and leather are cut and fitted by hand rather than pressed out on a line. That is also why no two pieces come out exactly the same.

Ransack Viking is a United States company. We import these pieces ourselves, check every one when it lands and ship from our warehouse in Chicago, Illinois. Engraving is done here in the United States after the piece arrives, so your runes or your own design go on before it leaves for you.

A note on handmade variation

This hawkbill is hand forged, not machine made and not bulk produced, so the piece that arrives will not be a pixel for pixel copy of the photograph. The Damascus is drawn out under a hammer and every billet lands differently, so the banding on your blade has its own angle and spacing. The pakka wood block is ground back by hand, and where the grind cuts through the dyed layers decides which colours show and how wide each band appears, so no two handles are the same. The dimensions, the steel, the hardness and the full tang build are identical every time. The character is not.

Frequently asked questions

Is pakka wood real wood?

Partly. It is made from real hardwood veneers, but they are dyed, stacked and impregnated with resin under heat and pressure, so the finished material behaves like a hard synthetic rather than like timber.

Does the handle need oiling?

No. Pakka wood is resin saturated and completely stable, so there is nothing to feed and nothing to dry out. Wash it, dry it, keep it away from sustained heat. Only genuinely wooden handles need an annual oil.

Will the colours fade?

Not with normal use. The dye goes into the veneers before the block is pressed, so the colour runs through the material rather than sitting on the surface, and sanding or scratching exposes more of the same colour rather than wearing it away.

What is a hawkbill actually good for day to day?

Anything you pull through: cordage, strapping, tape, netting, garden growth, opening sacks. It is poor at pushing cuts and at anything that wants a flat edge on a board, so most owners keep one alongside a straight knife rather than instead of one.

Is it full tang?

Yes. The tang runs the length of the handle with the pakka wood scales fixed to it and a steel bolster at the front, which is why the balance sits at the hand rather than out at the point.

How do you carry a curved blade safely?

In the sheath it came with. It is cut and stitched to this blade rather than to a template, which matters far more on a hooked knife than a straight one, because a generic sheath will let a curved edge work its way against the stitching.

What is in the box

• One Pakkaclaw Damascus hawkbill knife, full tang
• Genuine leather sheath
• Protective packaging for storage or gifting
• Forged and finished in the Czech Republic

Explore the range

Nearby in the range sit Karambit Knives, Hunting Knives, Dagger Knives and New Arrivals. Everything else worth knowing is written up in the guides.

Close to this one

Another in the same line is the Pakkacamp hunting knife, pattern welded Damascus. Next along the rack is the Ramcrown hunting knife, pattern welded Damascus. For a straight comparison, see the Wengehunter hunting knife, pattern welded Damascus.

The Sablecurve kukri knife covers the other half of the same kit. Nothing here exactly right, build one to your own spec on the custom Damascus knife page.