Moonpoll Hand Forged High Carbon Steel Poleaxe | 50 Inch Overall with a 5.5 Inch Cutting Edge | Reenactment Display Gift | RK-1361

A poleaxe is three weapons bolted to one stave and it is arguably the most complete hand weapon Europe ever produced. This one carries a deep crescent axe blade on one side, a square hammer poll directly opposite it and a long spike running in line with the haft, all forged from 1095 high carbon steel and mounted on a pale ash stave with riveted steel langets. Fifteenth century fight books treat the poleaxe as the weapon of the armoured duel, and the reason is that it answers every problem an armoured opponent presents without needing you to change weapons.

Forged, heat treated and finished in our shop in Memphis, Tennessee, hardened and drawn to 54 to 58 HRC and polished bright. It ships with the fitted leather head cover shown, free anywhere in the United States, and it can be engraved with Elder Futhark runes or a Viking pattern before it leaves the bench.

Specifications

Why the axe blade is a crescent and not a wedge

A wood axe has a thick wedge behind its edge because it has to split fibres apart and then keep moving. A poleaxe blade does not. Its edge is long, thin and swept into a crescent, and the shape is built for a shearing cut across a limb or a shield rather than a splitting one into a log. The crescent means the edge enters at a point, rolls along its own curve as the head turns, and leaves at a point, so the cut is drawn rather than chopped and the blade does not bury itself and stop.

The two horns of the crescent do their own work. The upper horn hooks over a shield rim or a helmet edge, the lower one catches an ankle or a haft, and both give you something to pull with when the cut has not landed. That is why so many surviving blades are cut away behind the horns rather than left solid: less weight, more reach, and no loss of anything the blade actually needs. The hammer poll opposite handles the plate that the blade cannot cut, and the axial spike keeps the whole thing dangerous at distance.

Why 1095 high carbon steel and not stainless

Every plain steel piece in this group is forged from 1095, a simple high carbon steel with roughly one percent carbon and very little else in it. That plainness is the point. A steel with nothing but iron and carbon to argue about moves predictably under the hammer, takes a clean quench, and comes back to a hardness a smith can actually hold to. These are hardened and drawn to 54 to 58 HRC, which is deliberately a touch softer than a kitchen knife. A head that has to survive impact wants to bend and rebound rather than chip, and 1095 in that range absorbs a bad hit instead of losing a piece of itself.

Stainless alloys buy their rust resistance with chromium, and above about thirteen percent that chromium ties up carbon in carbides that make the steel harder to forge and more brittle at the edge. On a small folding knife that trade is fine. On a head that lands with the weight of a haft behind it, it is not. The cost of choosing 1095 is that it will rust if you leave it wet. Wipe it, oil it, and it will outlast you. There is more on that trade in our guide to Damascus versus stainless.

The ash haft

The haft is American ash, the same timber that goes into tool handles and baseball bats, and it is here for one reason. Ash has long straight fibres that run the length of the stave, which means it flexes under a shock load and returns instead of snapping across the grain. That flex is what keeps a heavy head from beating your hands. It is turned, sanded and finished with oil rather than lacquer, so the grain stays open and the surface grips a dry hand instead of sliding.

Oil finishes want feeding. Once or twice a year, wipe on a thin coat of boiled linseed or a hardwood handle oil, let it soak for twenty minutes and wipe the surplus off. Do not leave it standing in a damp corner or propped against a masonry wall, because wood pulls moisture out of stone and the fit at the head will loosen. Our guide to wooden handle care covers the routine.

Engraving, runes and your own design

Use the rune converter on this page to turn a name, a date or a short phrase into Elder Futhark and we will cut it into the steel or the handle. If you would rather have a Viking pattern than a rune line, choose your own design in the engraving option above the add to cart button and tell us whether it goes on the blade or the handle. Where a piece already carries an engraved design, your chosen engraving replaces it rather than sitting alongside it.

Engraving is cut by hand after the piece is finished and before final oiling, so keep the line short and let it sit where the eye already goes. Names, dates, a line of a poem, a maker mark, a unit or a crew number all work. If you are unsure where a line should sit, send us the text and we will suggest a placement before we cut. Full details and examples are on the engraving page.

Care and sharpening

Carbon steel rusts. That is the only demanding thing about owning it. Wipe the steel down after handling, because fingerprints are salt and moisture and they will etch a bright surface in a week if you let them sit. A thin film of mineral oil, gun oil or paste wax on the metal is enough to keep it stable indoors. If the piece lives on a wall in a room that swings between damp and dry, check it every few months and re oil. Left alone in a garage or a basement it will spot, and once it spots the mark is permanent even after the rust is removed.

The edge is finished sharp from the forge and does not need attention until it stops biting. When it does, a coarse then fine whetstone, kept wet, held at the angle the bevel already carries, will bring it back in a few minutes. Do not take a powered grinder to it. Our guides cover steel care and sharpening with a whetstone in more detail.

Forged in Memphis

This is made in our shop in Memphis, Tennessee. Nothing in this listing is drop shipped from an importer catalogue and nothing is bought in finished and re labelled. The steel is cut, heated, drawn and shaped here, the heat treat is done here, and the fitting and finishing are done here by the same small crew. That is also why the lead time is honest rather than instant. Pieces in stock ship within two to three business days. If yours has to be made, or if you have asked for engraving, allow two to three weeks before it leaves the shop. We will tell you which it is when you order rather than after. Shipping inside the United States is free.

A note on handmade variation

This is hand forged. It is not machine made, not cast and not bulk produced, so what arrives will not be a pixel for pixel copy of the photograph on this page. The grain of the wood, the tone the steel takes from the fire and the oil, the exact run of a pattern, the precise curve of a profile, all of it shifts a little from one piece to the next because each one is worked by hand from natural materials. Two hafts cut from the same board will not read the same. Two etched blades from the same billet will not carry the same swirl.

What does not change is the specification. Dimensions, steel, hardness, fittings and build are the same every time. The character is the part that is yours alone, and it is the reason to buy something forged rather than something stamped.

Frequently asked questions

Is it sharp out of the box?

Yes. The crescent blade is ground and honed to a working edge and it will cut. The hammer poll is flat and the spike is brought to a point rather than an edge. Handle the head with the cover on until it is where you want it.

Can I use it for reenactment?

Not as sharpened live steel. Most reenactment groups require blunted, rolled edges and a rating for polearms. If you tell us what your group requires we can supply the head with an unsharpened edge instead.

Can I have runes engraved on it?

Yes. Use the rune converter on this page for Elder Futhark or choose your own Viking pattern in the engraving option. On a poleaxe the broad flat of the axe cheek is the natural place for a rune line.

Will mine look like the photograph?

The geometry, steel and dimensions will match. The ash grain in the haft is different every time and the polish on a hand ground crescent carries its own faint lines, so the light will play on yours slightly differently.

What is the difference between this and a halberd?

A halberd is longer, has a much longer spike for use against horsemen, and carries a rear hook for pulling riders down. A poleaxe is shorter, heavier in the head and built for close armoured fighting on foot.

How long does shipping take?

Two to three business days to leave the shop if it is in stock, two to three weeks if it is being made or engraved. It ships braced in a long carton and shipping inside the United States is free.

What is in the box

• One hand forged poleaxe in 1095 high carbon steel
• American ash haft with riveted steel langets and butt ferrule
• Fitted leather head cover
• Care, oiling and sharpening notes
• Forged and finished in Memphis, Tennessee

Explore the range

More in poleaxes, halberds, battle axes and viking weapons, and read the guides.