Wyrmfang Hand Forged Damascus Steel Spearhead with Brass Socket Collar & Leather Blade Sheath | Norse Reenactment Gift | RK-1511

Key Features:

  • Material: Forge welded Damascus in 1095 and 15N20 at 58 to 60 HRC.
  • Blade: Broad leaf profile with a raised central rib and full bevels.
  • Length: Approximately 14 to 15 inches overall from point to socket.
  • Socket: Forged socket with a solid brass collar and a rivet hole, sized for a 1.1 inch shaft.
  • Sheath: Vegetable tanned leather blade cover with a stud closure.
  • Shaft: Not included, haft your own ash or hickory.
  • Personalisation: Elder Futhark rune engraving or your own Viking design.
  • Hand Made in Memphis, Tennessee.

$239.00

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  • Free US shippingOn every order, no minimum
  • Lifetime warrantyAgainst any defect, forever
  • Hand ForgedShips from Memphis, Tennessee
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The details

Steel
Hand Forged Damascus
Reference
RK-1511

Features & Compatibility

A broad leaf bladed spearhead in pattern welded Damascus, forged with a raised central rib running from the socket to within an inch of the point, a brass collar at the mouth of the socket and a fitted leather sheath to cover the edges in transit. The pattern here is genuine layered steel rather than an etched surface print. You can see it in the way the lines swing out and form closed rings where the bevel grind cuts down through the stack, which is a thing only real layers do, and something no surface etch can fake.

The spear, not the sword, was the weapon of the Norse world. Swords were expensive and comparatively rare. Spears were what most men owned, what most men fought with, and what turns up in most graves, and the finest Migration and Viking Age heads found in Scandinavia are pattern welded exactly like this one, because a spearhead is small enough that a smith could afford to spend his best steel and his best day on it. This one is forged, ground, etched and fitted in our Memphis workshop, and it ships with the brass collared socket finished and the leather sheath made to the blade. The tree stump and the woodland in the photograph are scenery, and the spearhead ships without a shaft so you can cut and fit your own.

Specifications

Blade materialPattern welded Damascus in 1095 and 15N20, hardened to 58 to 60 HRC
PatternLayered wave and raindrop figure, hand etched to raise the contrast
Blade formBroad leaf blade with a raised central rib and a full length bevel each side
Overall lengthApproximately 14 to 15 inches from point to socket mouth
SocketForged socket with a solid brass collar, sized for a shaft of about 1.1 inches
FittingsBrass collar, rivet hole for a shaft pin
SheathVegetable tanned leather blade sheath with a stud closure strap
ShaftNot included, fit your own ash or hickory shaft
SKURK-1511

Why a spearhead is socketed rather than tanged

Look at the base of this head. It is not a spike driven into a hole. It is a socket, a cone of steel forged around a mandrel and closed, that slides over the outside of the shaft. That choice is the whole reason the spear outlived every other pole weapon of the period. A tang splits wood. Every thrust drives a wedge deeper into the end grain and a shaft with a tang in it eventually opens like a peeled stick. A socket does the opposite. It grips the shaft from outside, so the harder you drive the head the tighter the wood is squeezed into the cone, and the shaft carries the load in compression along its length rather than being split apart.

The brass collar at the mouth of the socket is not decoration alone. The mouth is the thinnest and most stressed part of the socket, the place a spearhead cracks if it is ever going to, and a collar reinforces the rim while it hides the join line. The single rivet hole through the socket wall takes a pin or a wood screw that stops the head walking off the shaft on the pull back, which matters far more than most people expect the first time a head is pulled out of a target.

The Damascus and what the layers do

The billet is 1095 high carbon steel folded with 15N20, a nickel bearing steel that resists the etch and therefore reads bright against the darker 1095. Forge welded, drawn out, cut, restacked and drawn again, then forged to shape so the layers follow the outline of the blade rather than being ground across them. Heat treated to 58 to 60 HRC, which is hard enough to hold a cutting edge on a thrusting weapon and still tough enough that the point will not chip if it meets something it should not.

The etch that shows the pattern also makes the steel slightly more eager to rust, because acid opens the surface. That is the trade for the figure and it is why the care section below matters more on a Damascus piece than on a plain one. Do not confuse this with a laser etched or acid printed pattern on plain steel. Those exist, they are cheaper, and they wear off. This one is layers all the way through, so a resharpening reveals more of the same pattern rather than cutting it away.

Engraving, runes and your own design

Use the rune converter on this page to turn a name, a date or a short phrase into Elder Futhark and we will cut it into the steel or the leather. If you would rather have a Viking pattern than a rune line, choose your own design in the engraving option above the add to cart button and tell us where it goes. Where a piece already carries an engraved design, your chosen engraving replaces it rather than sitting alongside it. On a Damascus spearhead we usually put the cut on the socket or the brass collar rather than the patterned blade, because a rune line fights the figure, and we are always happy to put a longer line on the leather sheath. There are photographs of both at the engraving page.

Mounting and hafting

This is a working head sold without a shaft, which is how most people want it, because shaft length is a personal decision. For a one handed spear used with a shield, most reenactors cut between six and seven feet. For a two handed hewing spear, seven to eight. Ash is the traditional choice and hickory is tougher and heavier. Turn or plane the top of the shaft to a slight taper, test fit dry, and take the wood down until the socket stops about a quarter inch short of seating, then drive it home so the last of the fit is an interference fit. Drill through the rivet hole and pin it. If you want it purely for display, a wall mount or a simple oak plaque works and the leather sheath keeps the edge covered when it is handled.

Care

Wipe the blade down after handling. Skin acid is the fastest way to put a fingerprint shaped rust bloom into an etched Damascus surface, and it can happen overnight in a humid room. Keep a light film of mineral oil or camellia oil on the steel. Store the head out of its sheath, not in it, because leather holds moisture and a sheathed blade left in a drawer for a season is a blade you will be sanding. Feed the sheath twice a year with a neutral dressing. Brass takes any metal polish. Fuller notes on rust, oils and storage are on steel care.

Forged in Memphis

The billet was welded, the head was forged, the socket was rolled and the sheath was cut and stitched in our shop in Memphis, Tennessee. Nothing here comes out of an importer catalogue with our name stamped on it. Because we did the heat treat ourselves, we can stand behind it with a lifetime warranty against defects in forging, grind, heat treat and fittings, with no end date and no receipt needed.

A note on handmade variation

This is hand made, not machine made or bulk produced, so what arrives will not be a pixel for pixel copy of the photograph. No two Damascus billets ever draw out the same way, so your pattern will be its own, and hammer texture, etch depth, the exact sweep of the leaf and the tone and grain of the leather will all differ a little because every piece is worked by hand from natural materials. The dimensions, the material and the build are the same every time. The character is not.

Frequently asked questions

Is this real Damascus or an etched pattern

Real forge welded Damascus. The billet is 1095 and 15N20 folded and drawn, and the giveaway is the closed rings the pattern makes where the bevel cuts through the layers. An etched print sits on the surface and sands off. This does not.

Does it come with a shaft

No. The head and the leather sheath ship on their own. Shaft length is personal and long timber is punishing to ship without damage, so we leave the hafting to you and size the socket for a standard shaft of about 1.1 inches.

Is it sharp when it arrives

Yes. It arrives with a working edge and a fine point. If you want it blunted for a reenactment group that requires rebated edges, say so in the order notes and we will roll the edge before it ships at no cost.

Will it rust

It can, like any high carbon steel, and the etched surface is a little more willing than plain steel. Keep it oiled, keep it out of the sheath in storage and wipe your fingerprints off, and it will stay clean for decades.

Can I use it for hunting

Physically it is a capable head, but spear hunting is regulated differently in every state and some prohibit it outright. Check your own regulations before you fit it to a shaft with that in mind.

How long until it ships

Processing is one to two weeks because every billet is forged and every sheath is cut to the blade it covers, then shipping is free inside the United States.

What is in the box

  • One pattern welded Damascus spearhead with a brass collared socket
  • Fitted vegetable tanned leather blade sheath with a stud strap
  • Care sheet for etched Damascus
  • Lifetime warranty against defects in forging, grind, heat treat and fittings
  • Forged and finished in Memphis, Tennessee

Explore the range

See more in viking spears, viking weapons, viking axes and hunting knives, or read the guides for hafting and care.

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Shipping, returns and ageBlades are sold to adults aged 18 and over. Delivery times are on the shipping page, the lifetime warranty and returns process are on the returns page, and storage advice is on safety and storage. Every piece is forged in Memphis, Tennessee. See country of origin.

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