Starthorn Hand Forged High Carbon Steel Gothic Spiked Mace | 26 Inch Overall with 4.5 Inch Head | American Walnut Haft and Polished Steel Collars | Reenactment Collector Gift | RK-1354

This is the head shape most people picture when they hear the word mace, an ovoid body carrying five staggered rows of pyramidal spikes with a conical spike standing off the crown. The name that goes with it is a mess of history. What English speakers call a morning star, after the German Morgenstern, properly describes a spiked head on a haft, while the ball on a chain that films insist on calling a morning star is a flail and a much rarer thing. The gothic spiked mace in this form is a fifteenth and sixteenth century European mace and it was made in numbers.

Forged, heat treated and finished by hand in the Czech Republic, hardened and drawn to 54 to 58 HRC and mirror polished. It ships with the leather wrist strap shown, free anywhere in the United States, and it can be engraved with Elder Futhark runes or a Viking pattern before it leaves the bench.

Specifications

Why the spikes are pyramids and not needles

Every spike on this head is a four sided pyramid with a short, thick base, not a slender point. That is deliberate and it is what the surviving originals look like. A long thin spike concentrates force beautifully right up until it hits something hard, at which point it bends, snaps or buries itself and stays there. A short pyramid does almost as much work at the point and has a cross section that grows fast behind it, so the load spreads back into the head instead of into a weak neck.

The staggered rows matter too. Line the spikes up in columns and there are lanes between them where the head can land flat and do nothing. Stagger them and there is no angle of approach that does not put at least two points in contact. The conical finial on the crown is the same reasoning applied to a thrust, and it lets the piece be used point first as well as swung, which is why so many surviving gothic maces carry one.

Why 1095 high carbon steel and not stainless

Every plain steel piece in this group is forged from 1095, a simple high carbon steel with roughly one percent carbon and very little else in it. That plainness is the point. A steel with nothing but iron and carbon to argue about moves predictably under the hammer, takes a clean quench, and comes back to a hardness a smith can actually hold to. These are hardened and drawn to 54 to 58 HRC, which is deliberately a touch softer than a kitchen knife. A head that has to survive impact wants to bend and rebound rather than chip, and 1095 in that range absorbs a bad hit instead of losing a piece of itself.

Stainless alloys buy their rust resistance with chromium, and above about thirteen percent that chromium ties up carbon in carbides that make the steel harder to forge and more brittle at the edge. On a small folding knife that trade is fine. On a head that lands with the weight of a haft behind it, it is not. The cost of choosing 1095 is that it will rust if you leave it wet. Wipe it, oil it, and it will outlast you. There is more on that trade in our guide to Damascus versus stainless.

The hardwood haft

The haft is close grained hardwood, turned to a slight taper so the hand finds the same place on it every time and sanded through the grits before it takes its oil finish. Dense hardwood is chosen over a softwood for a reason that has nothing to do with looks. A dense stave carries the shock of a heavy head into the wood rather than letting it stop at your palm, and it holds a ferrule or a langet tight for years instead of shrinking away from the fitting after one dry winter.

The finish is oil, not lacquer, which is a deliberate choice. Lacquer looks perfect until it chips, then water gets under it and you cannot fix it without stripping the whole handle. Oil wears gradually and is repaired by wiping more oil on. Once or twice a year, a thin coat of boiled linseed or a proprietary handle oil, twenty minutes to soak, then wipe off what has not gone in. See wooden handle care.

Engraving, runes and your own design

Use the rune converter on this page to turn a name, a date or a short phrase into Elder Futhark and we will cut it into the steel or the handle. If you would rather have a Viking pattern than a rune line, choose your own design in the engraving option above the add to cart button and tell us whether it goes on the blade or the handle. Where a piece already carries an engraved design, your chosen engraving replaces it rather than sitting alongside it.

Engraving is cut by hand after the piece is finished and before final oiling, so keep the line short and let it sit where the eye already goes. Names, dates, a line of a poem, a maker mark, a unit or a crew number all work. If you are unsure where a line should sit, send us the text and we will suggest a placement before we cut. Full details and examples are on the engraving page.

Care and sharpening

Carbon steel rusts. That is the only demanding thing about owning it. Wipe the steel down after handling, because fingerprints are salt and moisture and they will etch a bright surface in a week if you let them sit. A thin film of mineral oil, gun oil or paste wax on the metal is enough to keep it stable indoors. If the piece lives on a wall in a room that swings between damp and dry, check it every few months and re oil. Left alone in a garage or a basement it will spot, and once it spots the mark is permanent even after the rust is removed.

There is no edge to keep up on a mace. The spikes are dressed points, and if one picks up a burr after a knock, a few light strokes of a fine file along its faces will tidy it. Do not take a powered grinder to it. Our guides cover steel care and sharpening with a whetstone in more detail.

Made in the Czech Republic

The work behind this piece happens in a Czech Republic workshop that has kept to the old methods. Steel is forged and heat treated by hand, the grind is taken down by eye rather than by machine, and the handle, fittings and sheath are cut and finished one at a time. Because of that, every piece carries small marks of the hand that made it.

Ransack Viking is a United States company. We import direct, check each piece when it reaches us, and ship from our Chicago, Illinois warehouse. Engraving is added here in the United States after arrival, so the piece you receive is finished to your order.

A note on handmade variation

This is hand forged. It is not machine made, not cast and not bulk produced, so what arrives will not be a pixel for pixel copy of the photograph on this page. The grain of the wood, the tone the steel takes from the fire and the oil, the exact run of a pattern, the precise curve of a profile, all of it shifts a little from one piece to the next because each one is worked by hand from natural materials. Two hafts cut from the same board will not read the same, and no two heads carry spikes filed exactly alike.

What does not change is the specification. Dimensions, steel, hardness, fittings and build are the same every time. The character is the part that is yours alone, and it is the reason to buy something forged rather than something stamped.

Frequently asked questions

Are the spikes sharp enough to cut?

They are pointed but not needle sharp, which is correct for the type. The points will puncture leather and they will certainly injure, but they are dressed with enough material behind them that they do not bend on contact.

Can it be used in reenactment or sparring?

No. This is live steel with real mass and pointed spikes. It is a collector, display and film or stage piece. Nothing about a spiked head is safe against a person even in armour.

Can I have runes engraved on it?

Yes. Use the rune converter on this page for Elder Futhark or choose your own Viking pattern. On a spiked head the usual placements are the smooth band around the equator or the steel collar above the grip.

Will mine look like the photograph?

The dimensions, the spike count and the polish level will match. The walnut grain will be different in every piece, and each spike is filed by hand so the rows carry small variations you can find if you look.

What is the difference between this and a flail?

A flail puts the head on a chain so it can whip around a shield or a guard, at the cost of control. This is fixed to the haft, so everything you put into the swing arrives where you aimed it. Fixed heads were far more common.

How long does shipping take?

Two to three business days to leave the shop if in stock, two to three weeks if it is being made or engraved. Shipping within the United States is free and tracking is sent when it goes out.

What is in the box

• One hand forged gothic spiked mace in 1095 high carbon steel
• American walnut haft with polished steel collars and ferrule
• Leather wrist strap
• Care and oiling notes
• Forged and finished in the Czech Republic

Explore the range

More in maces, flails, war axes and Norse arms, and read the guides.

Compare it with these

Also in this group is the Ironpetal mace, 26 inches overall. Sitting beside it in the catalogue is the Ashcudgel mace, 27 inches overall. Another in the same line is the Stormflute mace, 28 inches overall.

For a different piece from the same family, look at the Ashmaul poleaxe. Pick the steel, the length and the fittings yourself on the custom Norse arms page.